Couldn't sleep, some noise approx 4am. Guess it was people leaving for the airport or going trekking.
Was up at 6am, went for breakfast and ramsharam turned up. We had a cup of tea together. He said that he hoped I would return someday soon and when I did he would arrange for us to go on a 6 day trek!That would be another good reason to return to this wonderful country.
He said that he and his family were very pleased to have met me and were glad I had enjoyed my time in Nepal.I am now viewed as their English brother!He is such a nice guy and has been a great help during my stay. He is very interesting and I have learned a lot about his culture, religion and country during our time together.
I have come to look upon him as a friend and hope to renew our aquaintence some time in the future.
The trip to the airport was very quick, and it was time to say goodbye to Ramsharam. As usual Kathmandu did not disappoint me with it's level of noise and activity even that early in the morning.
Joined massive queue at the airport to get through security.Paid my departure tax and checked in.Managed to get an extra legroom seat by the window on the flight to Doha.
Took off from Kathmandu with some sadness at the end of my holiday.This trip has been a very memorable experience for me in many ways. I have seen some great scenery, met some wonderful people, Ramsharam, Keshab and all their family as well as Krishna and family.They have all been prepared to share what little they have.
I have seen poverty and how difficult life is for the majority, a very humbling experience. It make you realise how lucky we in the West are, and how much we take for granted.
I realise the stupidness of stressing out about things that happen to me.Everyone I have met here is worse off than me, their life is MUCH harder than mine,yet they seem to have an inner happiness and always have a smile on their face.
I will never forget this trip, Nepal has left it's mark on me in a big way.
As if to make it worse and to ensure my last memory was truly memorable, the view of the Himalaya from my seat on the plane was truly stunning!!! The range streched out for miles with Kathmandu valley below. All this against a clear blue sky. As we flew over other valleys the morning mist lay low to the ground, covering everything. This made for a stunning view in contrast to the mountains.
Nature could not have given a better final view than this!
The flight was good, and after watching a couple of films it was time to land in Doha. Very hot and sunny, a 5 hour wait for my connection.
Sat listening to my ipod and had a meal, curry, what else!
Got my connection and another uneventful flight back to the UK. As each hour passed it meant that I was getting nearer to seeing Sandra.
Finally landed at Heathrow, got my luggae and as I walked out there she was with Janice, her sister. It was so good to take her in my arms and kiss her. I have truly missed her during this trip.
I would have loved her to have been there to share all of the experiences. However I know that she would have hated every minute of it. I cannot thank her enough for allowing me to go and I know that I am lucky to be married to her.
Finally got home just aftr midnight, tired but eager to relate all that happened.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Road to Kathmandu
Up early due to being unable to sleep.Good really as the taxi was booked for 6am.Driver finally arrived at 6.30.In the meantime the sun had risen, the mountains were bathed in subshine and it seemed as if Nepal was saying to me "now you are leaving, we can show off our scenery to it's best advantage and you won't be able to take a photo!"
This would havve been the day to be on the lake early!!!!
Loaded up the car and off we set.As we drove out of Pokhara the mountains really were a sight to behold. I managed to get some great photos of the range from the roadside, so I was very pleased.
It seemed that Pokhara was reminding me of what fantastic scenery it had to offer to ensure that I returned at some time in the future.
Our journey was very good,a little more traffic than the previous ones. More lorries and buses, but we made good time. We stoppped at a place called River Springs Resort, just past Mugling. It was a really nice spot, on the river, with it's own swimming pool. Breakfast was good and well needed as we had been travelling for a few hours.
We set off again and our driver stopped in a small town to have his "dal bat".Rice and lentil soup, the staple diet of most Nepalese.It is often accompanied with vegetables, sometimes fish or meat, but only if you are rich or very fortunate!
The town had a street market with some colourful stalls selling fruit and veg.There were a couple of street sellers with some weird fish things.They looked like fish heads coated in some batter/breadcrumbs.Weird.
The drive got slower as we neared Kathmandu. The road became more twisting and winding, as well as hilly. This made it difficult to pass lorries and buses but the plus side was the scenery! Some more great views of the Himalaya.
We finally arrived at the outskirts of Kathmandu.I had forgotten how manic this place is!!!
After the tranquillity of Sauraha and Pokhara this was bedlam.Horns tooting, cars, bikes and motorcycles everywhere. It was noisy, dusty, busy and frantic,a great place!
Ramsharam was at the hotel to meet us.He was very pleased to see us arrive safe and sound.Arranged to meet him later this evening for dinner at Kilroy's.
Sorted out the pashminas and CDs I wanted to buy, changed up some travellers cheques,had lunch in Pilgrim's.
Had a shave and a shower, heaven after the cold water in Pokhara!
Sat in the terrace area and had a well deserved beer and updated my journal. the staff were all pleased to see me back, I was even in the same room, felt like I had never been away really.
Met Ramsharam in Kilroy's, had a great meal as usual.I had liver and bacon with pesto mash, really good.
Had a pleasant evening talking about my time in Nepal and how much I enjoyed it.
Back to the hotel to settle the bill. Only £50 approx for my 5 night stay! So cheap for a place in the centre of town.
Ramsharam will meet me just before 7am tomorrow and take me to the airport.
Said my goodbyes to Sue and Reggie,I leave too early to say goodbye in the morning.
Updated journal and again watched the English footie on the box till the early hours. I knew I wouldn't sleep so just as well really.
This would havve been the day to be on the lake early!!!!
Loaded up the car and off we set.As we drove out of Pokhara the mountains really were a sight to behold. I managed to get some great photos of the range from the roadside, so I was very pleased.
It seemed that Pokhara was reminding me of what fantastic scenery it had to offer to ensure that I returned at some time in the future.
Our journey was very good,a little more traffic than the previous ones. More lorries and buses, but we made good time. We stoppped at a place called River Springs Resort, just past Mugling. It was a really nice spot, on the river, with it's own swimming pool. Breakfast was good and well needed as we had been travelling for a few hours.
We set off again and our driver stopped in a small town to have his "dal bat".Rice and lentil soup, the staple diet of most Nepalese.It is often accompanied with vegetables, sometimes fish or meat, but only if you are rich or very fortunate!
The town had a street market with some colourful stalls selling fruit and veg.There were a couple of street sellers with some weird fish things.They looked like fish heads coated in some batter/breadcrumbs.Weird.
The drive got slower as we neared Kathmandu. The road became more twisting and winding, as well as hilly. This made it difficult to pass lorries and buses but the plus side was the scenery! Some more great views of the Himalaya.
We finally arrived at the outskirts of Kathmandu.I had forgotten how manic this place is!!!
After the tranquillity of Sauraha and Pokhara this was bedlam.Horns tooting, cars, bikes and motorcycles everywhere. It was noisy, dusty, busy and frantic,a great place!
Ramsharam was at the hotel to meet us.He was very pleased to see us arrive safe and sound.Arranged to meet him later this evening for dinner at Kilroy's.
Sorted out the pashminas and CDs I wanted to buy, changed up some travellers cheques,had lunch in Pilgrim's.
Had a shave and a shower, heaven after the cold water in Pokhara!
Sat in the terrace area and had a well deserved beer and updated my journal. the staff were all pleased to see me back, I was even in the same room, felt like I had never been away really.
Met Ramsharam in Kilroy's, had a great meal as usual.I had liver and bacon with pesto mash, really good.
Had a pleasant evening talking about my time in Nepal and how much I enjoyed it.
Back to the hotel to settle the bill. Only £50 approx for my 5 night stay! So cheap for a place in the centre of town.
Ramsharam will meet me just before 7am tomorrow and take me to the airport.
Said my goodbyes to Sue and Reggie,I leave too early to say goodbye in the morning.
Updated journal and again watched the English footie on the box till the early hours. I knew I wouldn't sleep so just as well really.
Pokhara day 3
Slept much better, apart from the fact that I forgot to switch of my alarm so I was awoken at 4.45am(idiot!!!)
Looked out of my window approx 6.30 and the sun was shining on the mountains!I had toyed with the idea of going out early but had decided against it.
had some breakfast, met Sue and Reggie and we deceided to go out on the lake.
I had heard on BBC World News that Spurs had won 4-0 last night,so aws in a good mood.
Got to the boat station, looked for BabaRam but he was still asleep according to the other guys. Arranged for a young guy to take us out on the lake.It was very peaceful and the views were great.Finally got to take some photos of the mountains and reflections in the lake, so am very happy.Spent the rest of the morning chilling and recharging my batteries.Meeting Bridget for lunch at the Monsoon cafe. On the way lookeed in at the Tibetan craft shop to select bracelets for Sandra and the girls.Weather is very hot,approx 32 degrees C, but it does get cooler of a night now.Felt really relaxed today. Tomorrow we undertake the trip back to Kathmandu, some 6 hours, so was glad not to do much today.
Had dinner at the Moondance with Bridget.Had another power cut , this one eventually lasted 4 hours!
Bridget is a very nice lady, she set up her business arranging tours some 15 years ago.She and her husband work very hard ensuring their clients have a good time and a wonderful experience on their tours.I wish them all the success, they deserve it.
After dinner Sue and Bridget said their goodbyes, some sadness on both sides at leaving, but Sue will be back to see her next year.
Went back to the hotel, power back on. Packed the last few things and managed to catch some English footie on tv. Even saw the goals from Spurs last 2 games, result!
Tried to sleep, but not a great night.
Looked out of my window approx 6.30 and the sun was shining on the mountains!I had toyed with the idea of going out early but had decided against it.
had some breakfast, met Sue and Reggie and we deceided to go out on the lake.
I had heard on BBC World News that Spurs had won 4-0 last night,so aws in a good mood.
Got to the boat station, looked for BabaRam but he was still asleep according to the other guys. Arranged for a young guy to take us out on the lake.It was very peaceful and the views were great.Finally got to take some photos of the mountains and reflections in the lake, so am very happy.Spent the rest of the morning chilling and recharging my batteries.Meeting Bridget for lunch at the Monsoon cafe. On the way lookeed in at the Tibetan craft shop to select bracelets for Sandra and the girls.Weather is very hot,approx 32 degrees C, but it does get cooler of a night now.Felt really relaxed today. Tomorrow we undertake the trip back to Kathmandu, some 6 hours, so was glad not to do much today.
Had dinner at the Moondance with Bridget.Had another power cut , this one eventually lasted 4 hours!
Bridget is a very nice lady, she set up her business arranging tours some 15 years ago.She and her husband work very hard ensuring their clients have a good time and a wonderful experience on their tours.I wish them all the success, they deserve it.
After dinner Sue and Bridget said their goodbyes, some sadness on both sides at leaving, but Sue will be back to see her next year.
Went back to the hotel, power back on. Packed the last few things and managed to catch some English footie on tv. Even saw the goals from Spurs last 2 games, result!
Tried to sleep, but not a great night.
Friday, November 7, 2008
Pokhara, day 2
Well, had another sleepless night!!!Bed to small, only built for short Nepalese!
Left at 5am to meet BabaRam.He appeared out of the shadows, we agreed a price and of he went to get the boat.He the said"you go this way a little bit then wait.Sun comes up and you see mountain"
Remember this was pitch black and I had no idea where I needed to go. I agreed a price for him to take me and off we set in the dark. We chatted all the time, again he has 4 children all in private school. Just like cabbies the guys involved in the tourist industry do far better than average.
As it got lighter it became obvious that the cloud was to thick! In fact there was even a fog on the lake. I was gutted! All this way, an early start and no mountains. I am sure the gods were against me!
We paddled back and I returned to the hotel.I was back in my room at approx 7.15. I tried to get some sleep, grabbed approx 1 hour and awoke to sunshine!!!
Looked out my window and could see the mountains!
Had a dodgy tummy and took some Imodiums to try and settle it down.
Went to lunch at the Monsoon cafe and didn't really eat much, just wanted to drink water really. We then went on to meet Bridget. She walked us back to her house. A bit out of the way, in the back of Pokhara, I wouldn't like to live there.
However she has a nice garden and a lovely home.She made us feel very welcome. We sat under the Buff Shelter that Krishna from Sweet Memories built a few weeks ago. It is made from bamboo and dried grass. He brought the grass from Sauraha on the top of the bus!!!!
I must say she has a great view of the mountains!Of course I didn't bring my camera.
We spent approx an hour there, very relaxing. She walked us along the back road to near our hotel. Saw some great photo ops on the way, could have kicked myself for not taking my camera. Must have felt ill.
We were due to meet Bridget later for dinner, but I felt a bit dicky and needed some sleep, so I didn't go.
To some more Imodiums and Diarolyte to rehydrate and went to bed. Must have needed some sleep as I slept till midnight!
As the hotel locks up at 10pm I couldn't get out to mail Sandra. Had agood night's sleep all round.
Left at 5am to meet BabaRam.He appeared out of the shadows, we agreed a price and of he went to get the boat.He the said"you go this way a little bit then wait.Sun comes up and you see mountain"
Remember this was pitch black and I had no idea where I needed to go. I agreed a price for him to take me and off we set in the dark. We chatted all the time, again he has 4 children all in private school. Just like cabbies the guys involved in the tourist industry do far better than average.
As it got lighter it became obvious that the cloud was to thick! In fact there was even a fog on the lake. I was gutted! All this way, an early start and no mountains. I am sure the gods were against me!
We paddled back and I returned to the hotel.I was back in my room at approx 7.15. I tried to get some sleep, grabbed approx 1 hour and awoke to sunshine!!!
Looked out my window and could see the mountains!
Had a dodgy tummy and took some Imodiums to try and settle it down.
Went to lunch at the Monsoon cafe and didn't really eat much, just wanted to drink water really. We then went on to meet Bridget. She walked us back to her house. A bit out of the way, in the back of Pokhara, I wouldn't like to live there.
However she has a nice garden and a lovely home.She made us feel very welcome. We sat under the Buff Shelter that Krishna from Sweet Memories built a few weeks ago. It is made from bamboo and dried grass. He brought the grass from Sauraha on the top of the bus!!!!
I must say she has a great view of the mountains!Of course I didn't bring my camera.
We spent approx an hour there, very relaxing. She walked us along the back road to near our hotel. Saw some great photo ops on the way, could have kicked myself for not taking my camera. Must have felt ill.
We were due to meet Bridget later for dinner, but I felt a bit dicky and needed some sleep, so I didn't go.
To some more Imodiums and Diarolyte to rehydrate and went to bed. Must have needed some sleep as I slept till midnight!
As the hotel locks up at 10pm I couldn't get out to mail Sandra. Had agood night's sleep all round.
Pokhara day 1
Well, that was the worst night's sleep I have ever had in my life.Awoke approx midnight.Bed was like a rock, you would not hav made a dent in the pillow with a hammer, so was awake all night!
To cap it all a cockerel started crowing at 4.30am.
Reggie knocked on my door at 6 am to tell me you could see the mountains! Main one we could see was Machapuchere (fishtail).They are truly magnificent.
Went to our original hotel for breakfast and the Indians were leaing!They were a noisy lot, shouting,walking to and fro,generally creating havoc.If we had stayed here we wouldn"t have slept anyway!
Decided to take a cab up the the peace Stoupa on the other side of the lake. Got a taxi and the driver has 4 children all in private school. Just like cabbies everywhere, make loads of money!!!
The road up to the Stoupa was very hilly and winding, all of a sudden we turn of onto a dirt track! This was really steep and bumpy, do not know how he didn't stall it!Taxis out here are all small Suzukis. They take a real battering!
The view from the Stoupa across to the mountains definitely ahd a "wow" factor.Can honestly say the only place elsewhere I have been that had that effect was the Grand Canyon!
The weather was a bit hazy, but took some shots. Should be ok.
The Stoupa was very relaxing so I spent some time to reflect on my trip so far.These Buddhists knew where to build temples that give peace and solitude!
I updated my journal and generally chilled out in readiness for the descant to the lake.
The path done was very steep and tricky in places.Met a lot of people walking up. All very hot and out of breath! Everyone asked if it was much further, but I said the view was worth it!
At the bottom there is a cafe(naturally) so I had a snack and a beer then got a water taxi back to lakeside (Pokhara).
Met Sue and Reggie and they had arranged with a boatman to take me out tomorrow at 5.30 am to see the sunrise over the mountains.
Met a friend of Sue's who has lived out here for approx 15 years.Bridget and her husband arrange trekking and trips around the Himalayas and the Indian sub continent.
She was very nice and had some good stories to tell.
Ate at a restaurant called Moondance where we had grilled chicken and mashed potato followed by apple crumble and ice cream!!It was delicious.Arranged to visit Bridget's for tea tomorrow, very British, and went back to the hotel.
Had an early night as tomorrow is a very early start.
To cap it all a cockerel started crowing at 4.30am.
Reggie knocked on my door at 6 am to tell me you could see the mountains! Main one we could see was Machapuchere (fishtail).They are truly magnificent.
Went to our original hotel for breakfast and the Indians were leaing!They were a noisy lot, shouting,walking to and fro,generally creating havoc.If we had stayed here we wouldn"t have slept anyway!
Decided to take a cab up the the peace Stoupa on the other side of the lake. Got a taxi and the driver has 4 children all in private school. Just like cabbies everywhere, make loads of money!!!
The road up to the Stoupa was very hilly and winding, all of a sudden we turn of onto a dirt track! This was really steep and bumpy, do not know how he didn't stall it!Taxis out here are all small Suzukis. They take a real battering!
The view from the Stoupa across to the mountains definitely ahd a "wow" factor.Can honestly say the only place elsewhere I have been that had that effect was the Grand Canyon!
The weather was a bit hazy, but took some shots. Should be ok.
The Stoupa was very relaxing so I spent some time to reflect on my trip so far.These Buddhists knew where to build temples that give peace and solitude!
I updated my journal and generally chilled out in readiness for the descant to the lake.
The path done was very steep and tricky in places.Met a lot of people walking up. All very hot and out of breath! Everyone asked if it was much further, but I said the view was worth it!
At the bottom there is a cafe(naturally) so I had a snack and a beer then got a water taxi back to lakeside (Pokhara).
Met Sue and Reggie and they had arranged with a boatman to take me out tomorrow at 5.30 am to see the sunrise over the mountains.
Met a friend of Sue's who has lived out here for approx 15 years.Bridget and her husband arrange trekking and trips around the Himalayas and the Indian sub continent.
She was very nice and had some good stories to tell.
Ate at a restaurant called Moondance where we had grilled chicken and mashed potato followed by apple crumble and ice cream!!It was delicious.Arranged to visit Bridget's for tea tomorrow, very British, and went back to the hotel.
Had an early night as tomorrow is a very early start.
Trip to Pokhara
Up early for Breakfast at Sweet Memories and to say our goodbye to Krishna and family.
They gave us some presents and wished us well.
I paid my bill for the Rhino Lodge, 5 nights with aircon and extras, few drinks and snacks,and it only came to 50 Pounds!!!
We went to the shop to say goodbye to Keshab and wait for the car.Again more gifts and this time Laxhmi gave us the Tikka mark (red dot) on our foreheads.This is a sign of affection and good luck.
Very sad to leave these people,they are so nice and appreciative of what Sue does.I feel they have become genuine friends.
Our driver turned up, bags were loaded and of we set!
He is an ex police officer and it showed. He was a very careful driver,especially as the road to Mugling was a lot busier with buses and lorries than our trip down.
He made good time and we stopped to have a drink.As we were about to set off Munoz (the driver)noticed we had a flat tyre. Not surprising on these roads! He changed the wheel and then off we went.We needed to find a tyre repair shop and after a few miles he saw a pile of tyres outside a wooden shack. He stopped the car, took out the tyre and gave it to and old guy.
He had to do everything by hand, get the tyre of using a hammer and chisel, take out the inner tube, repair it and put it back.At one stage I thought he was even going to inflate the tyre by mouth, but he had compressed air!
Kwikfit it wasn't, but much cheaper, only 50p.However Munoz complained as it normally costs 20p!
The drive was interesting as the scenery was really nice, we followed a river for miles where there were people rafting.
Arrived at the hotel to be told for that night we had to move. There was a big Indian party and the manager didn't want us to be kept awake.
Off we walked to a hotel opposite.
Put our stuff in our room, hotel was clean, but the motorbike parked in reception should have told me something!
Went for a walk and look around Pokhara.We are in the tourist bit so every shopkeeper says "Namaste"(hello)and wants to sell you something. Different to Sauraha were they are just pleased to see you!
Not as busy as Kathmandu, but lots of people.This is a starting point for most of the treks, so large parties of all nationalities.
Very disappointed as the mountains were covered in thick black cloud. All this way and I couldn't see them! It even looked like it was going to rain!
Hotel rules were back by 9pm, 10pm latest.
No boombang of door and speak softly.
Of course we complied, dare not to really. So an early night. No tv in our room and a cold shower! Not impressed.
They gave us some presents and wished us well.
I paid my bill for the Rhino Lodge, 5 nights with aircon and extras, few drinks and snacks,and it only came to 50 Pounds!!!
We went to the shop to say goodbye to Keshab and wait for the car.Again more gifts and this time Laxhmi gave us the Tikka mark (red dot) on our foreheads.This is a sign of affection and good luck.
Very sad to leave these people,they are so nice and appreciative of what Sue does.I feel they have become genuine friends.
Our driver turned up, bags were loaded and of we set!
He is an ex police officer and it showed. He was a very careful driver,especially as the road to Mugling was a lot busier with buses and lorries than our trip down.
He made good time and we stopped to have a drink.As we were about to set off Munoz (the driver)noticed we had a flat tyre. Not surprising on these roads! He changed the wheel and then off we went.We needed to find a tyre repair shop and after a few miles he saw a pile of tyres outside a wooden shack. He stopped the car, took out the tyre and gave it to and old guy.
He had to do everything by hand, get the tyre of using a hammer and chisel, take out the inner tube, repair it and put it back.At one stage I thought he was even going to inflate the tyre by mouth, but he had compressed air!
Kwikfit it wasn't, but much cheaper, only 50p.However Munoz complained as it normally costs 20p!
The drive was interesting as the scenery was really nice, we followed a river for miles where there were people rafting.
Arrived at the hotel to be told for that night we had to move. There was a big Indian party and the manager didn't want us to be kept awake.
Off we walked to a hotel opposite.
Put our stuff in our room, hotel was clean, but the motorbike parked in reception should have told me something!
Went for a walk and look around Pokhara.We are in the tourist bit so every shopkeeper says "Namaste"(hello)and wants to sell you something. Different to Sauraha were they are just pleased to see you!
Not as busy as Kathmandu, but lots of people.This is a starting point for most of the treks, so large parties of all nationalities.
Very disappointed as the mountains were covered in thick black cloud. All this way and I couldn't see them! It even looked like it was going to rain!
Hotel rules were back by 9pm, 10pm latest.
No boombang of door and speak softly.
Of course we complied, dare not to really. So an early night. No tv in our room and a cold shower! Not impressed.
Sauraha fourth day
Another early start! Today was the day for my elephant safari!
Keshab took me to the pick up point on his motorcycle, he was very careful not to drive too fast and avoided the inevitable bumps and potholes with great care.
We piled onto a jeep and were taken to the start point in the National park.
Keshab had follwed on his bike and ensured I got the best seat at the front. You sit on the corner of the basket with your legs hanging down either side of a support strut. Not very comfortable!
There was the usual chaos but I heard Keshab tell the mahout "photographer, London". The mahout then said if I needed him to stop at anytime just to tell him.
There was a young Nepalese couple in the basket with me, she was sitting at the back of the elephant. Not the best place to be.Not a good view and as they eat a lot of green plants a bit of a wind problem!!!
We started of through the jungle, through lots of bush and trees. Our guide then broke away from the other elephants and took us off into denser jungle. We spotted a herd of spotted deer, bit like Bambi, bit far away and difficult to take photos. They do like to hide!
As we progressed into the jungle we saw a variety of birds and then we heard the sound of a common sound of that well known species "Nokia standard tunus". Couldn't believe it, this couple both had their mobiles switched on and answered them. Of course everyone shouts when they speak on a mobile
You could immagine the conversation:
"Where are you"
"I am on the elephant"
"Really, any holdups?"
"No, and I managed to get a seat as well"
Anyone who comutes will understand!
This happened several times on the trek, so not surprisingly we didn't see too many animals!
Rhinos can hear from over a mile away, so no chance of any of them being near.
We did see peacocks, hogsJungle monkeys and another type of deer.
The trip lasted approx 2 hours, an enjoyable experience but disappointed I did not see any rhinos!!
Had lunch at Sweet Memories and in the afternoon Reggie went for his camel ride. He was really chuffed that he did it. He had tried once before but got off before the camel could get up as he didn't feel safe but he was ok this time.
My guide on the canoe trip offered to take me on a walk in the jungle to look for rhino when I told him I had not seen any. Felt a bit tired as I had been up early for the last few days. It was also very hot and humid.
We met Keshab, family and Ramsharam for dinner at K.C's, very enjoyable. They are good company , I paid Keshab for all my trips and activities and it only came to 2500 Nrs, approx 22 Pounds!!! How bad.
Packed my case for tomorrow's trip.
Keshab took me to the pick up point on his motorcycle, he was very careful not to drive too fast and avoided the inevitable bumps and potholes with great care.
We piled onto a jeep and were taken to the start point in the National park.
Keshab had follwed on his bike and ensured I got the best seat at the front. You sit on the corner of the basket with your legs hanging down either side of a support strut. Not very comfortable!
There was the usual chaos but I heard Keshab tell the mahout "photographer, London". The mahout then said if I needed him to stop at anytime just to tell him.
There was a young Nepalese couple in the basket with me, she was sitting at the back of the elephant. Not the best place to be.Not a good view and as they eat a lot of green plants a bit of a wind problem!!!
We started of through the jungle, through lots of bush and trees. Our guide then broke away from the other elephants and took us off into denser jungle. We spotted a herd of spotted deer, bit like Bambi, bit far away and difficult to take photos. They do like to hide!
As we progressed into the jungle we saw a variety of birds and then we heard the sound of a common sound of that well known species "Nokia standard tunus". Couldn't believe it, this couple both had their mobiles switched on and answered them. Of course everyone shouts when they speak on a mobile
You could immagine the conversation:
"Where are you"
"I am on the elephant"
"Really, any holdups?"
"No, and I managed to get a seat as well"
Anyone who comutes will understand!
This happened several times on the trek, so not surprisingly we didn't see too many animals!
Rhinos can hear from over a mile away, so no chance of any of them being near.
We did see peacocks, hogsJungle monkeys and another type of deer.
The trip lasted approx 2 hours, an enjoyable experience but disappointed I did not see any rhinos!!
Had lunch at Sweet Memories and in the afternoon Reggie went for his camel ride. He was really chuffed that he did it. He had tried once before but got off before the camel could get up as he didn't feel safe but he was ok this time.
My guide on the canoe trip offered to take me on a walk in the jungle to look for rhino when I told him I had not seen any. Felt a bit tired as I had been up early for the last few days. It was also very hot and humid.
We met Keshab, family and Ramsharam for dinner at K.C's, very enjoyable. They are good company , I paid Keshab for all my trips and activities and it only came to 2500 Nrs, approx 22 Pounds!!! How bad.
Packed my case for tomorrow's trip.
Sunday, November 2, 2008
Sauraha, third day
A very ealy start today. Had to be ready for 7am. Went on a dugout canoe ride and a visit to the elephant breeding centre. Walked to the river, it was very misty due to the heat. My guide got us the best seats right at the front of the boat.
My guide was very informative, telling me lots about the jungle and it's wildlife. we saw many different kinds of birds including some ducks from Siberia.Also passed some 'Marsh Muggers" like a croc but smaller. Too difficult to photo as they were really well hidden.
Dropped off the rest of the passengers, they were going on a jungle walk.
We continued down the river till we reached a small gap in the river bank and got off. My guide picked up 2 stones and told me to follow approx 6 feet behind him. If we saw a rhino we were to stay very still. If it charged I was to drop my backpack so it would distract the rhino and it would attack it. Oh by the way we would be running at this point!!!!
We walked for approx 15 to 20 mins, through the jungle. Don't know how my guide was going to see a rhino as the grass was taller than him, maybe that's why I was there.
Arrived at the breeding centre, approx 30 elephants there including one that was approx 2 months old.
Also 2 very playful young males(9 months to a year) who kept trying to barge into tourists. One even tried to mount the other, he has a lot to learn, although I think that was for the benefit of all the tourist!!
Centre has been established approx 22 years and has successfully bred some 24 calves. However some have been the result of wild elephants getting in the centre and having a field day! If you know what I mean.
All the elepnhants in the centre are tied, so easy pickings for a rampant wild male elephant.
Got back in time to chill watching the elephants bathing again.Very hot again today 32 degrees + and sunny.
This pm we met Kashav and went to a village in the fields where the people were forced to come down from the mountains. These people(1200 of them)have been living on Govt land for the last 4 years.They have cleared sections of the jungle/forest to plant crops.Used the wood from the trees to build shacks and generally made the best of it. They have no water and walk approx 6 hours round trip to get some.
The Govt now want them to leave the land.They have barricaded them in,roads(dirt tracks really)have been made impassable to cars, ansd stone walls and ditches created to isolate them. There is another settlement a few hundred yards away, with water, that the Govt have approved but they are not allowed to give water to the village we went to.
It was a pitiful sight to see these living conditions. Children are left alone all day while the parents get water or work in the fields. None of them will go to school!
We were a real source of wonder to them. They all wanted their picture taken and wre amazed to see themselves. No mirrors in these houses, so this may well be the first time some have seen their reflection.
It was also very hot. Washing was being dried on the grass after being washed in stagnant water from the fields.
We were all saddened by their situation but were in awe of their determination and resilience to survive.
If the Govt try to evict them they will all lie down in the main street in Tandi Bazar in protest.
Returned home to a welll earned shower (felt guilty) and went for dinner with Kashav and family. This time fried chicken, aloo (potato),rice,greens and dal ( a lentil soup you pour over the rice). Very tasty.
Dal is the staple diet of Nepalese. Most are lucky if they eat it once a day!
Went to the Tharu cultural centre to see Tharu dancing. The Tharu are the original tribe to inhabit the Terai area (where we are).
Again a early night, very tiring day. Updated blog, had a lot to right about.
My guide was very informative, telling me lots about the jungle and it's wildlife. we saw many different kinds of birds including some ducks from Siberia.Also passed some 'Marsh Muggers" like a croc but smaller. Too difficult to photo as they were really well hidden.
Dropped off the rest of the passengers, they were going on a jungle walk.
We continued down the river till we reached a small gap in the river bank and got off. My guide picked up 2 stones and told me to follow approx 6 feet behind him. If we saw a rhino we were to stay very still. If it charged I was to drop my backpack so it would distract the rhino and it would attack it. Oh by the way we would be running at this point!!!!
We walked for approx 15 to 20 mins, through the jungle. Don't know how my guide was going to see a rhino as the grass was taller than him, maybe that's why I was there.
Arrived at the breeding centre, approx 30 elephants there including one that was approx 2 months old.
Also 2 very playful young males(9 months to a year) who kept trying to barge into tourists. One even tried to mount the other, he has a lot to learn, although I think that was for the benefit of all the tourist!!
Centre has been established approx 22 years and has successfully bred some 24 calves. However some have been the result of wild elephants getting in the centre and having a field day! If you know what I mean.
All the elepnhants in the centre are tied, so easy pickings for a rampant wild male elephant.
Got back in time to chill watching the elephants bathing again.Very hot again today 32 degrees + and sunny.
This pm we met Kashav and went to a village in the fields where the people were forced to come down from the mountains. These people(1200 of them)have been living on Govt land for the last 4 years.They have cleared sections of the jungle/forest to plant crops.Used the wood from the trees to build shacks and generally made the best of it. They have no water and walk approx 6 hours round trip to get some.
The Govt now want them to leave the land.They have barricaded them in,roads(dirt tracks really)have been made impassable to cars, ansd stone walls and ditches created to isolate them. There is another settlement a few hundred yards away, with water, that the Govt have approved but they are not allowed to give water to the village we went to.
It was a pitiful sight to see these living conditions. Children are left alone all day while the parents get water or work in the fields. None of them will go to school!
We were a real source of wonder to them. They all wanted their picture taken and wre amazed to see themselves. No mirrors in these houses, so this may well be the first time some have seen their reflection.
It was also very hot. Washing was being dried on the grass after being washed in stagnant water from the fields.
We were all saddened by their situation but were in awe of their determination and resilience to survive.
If the Govt try to evict them they will all lie down in the main street in Tandi Bazar in protest.
Returned home to a welll earned shower (felt guilty) and went for dinner with Kashav and family. This time fried chicken, aloo (potato),rice,greens and dal ( a lentil soup you pour over the rice). Very tasty.
Dal is the staple diet of Nepalese. Most are lucky if they eat it once a day!
Went to the Tharu cultural centre to see Tharu dancing. The Tharu are the original tribe to inhabit the Terai area (where we are).
Again a early night, very tiring day. Updated blog, had a lot to right about.
Sauraha, second day
Up early and had breakfast.Today is a full day. Very hot at 8am!
Jeep came at 9.30 to take us to the village where the Women's Project is run. A very dusty, bumpy journey ofetn along dirt tracks to the Project. On arrival we were presented with flower garlands for festival.
All the rest of Kashav's family where there. They were preparing lunch for everyone.
Cooking on bricks and using logs/tree branches. Water comes from a hand pump, drawn from a bore hole.
Everything is done outside in the back garden.Difficult to comprehend unless you see it.
Lunch was chicken curry, rice, salad and fruit. This would be a real treat for the children, bit like our Xmas dinner! Most of these kids very rarely eat meat. Normally only rice and vegetables, occasionally fish.
The butcher arrived on his pushbike with the chicken and cooking began!!
The project teaches women skills that will help them be self sufficient.
They have sewing machines that the women rent for 5 Rupees a week, appox 5p. This money is saved for them and when they have sufficient skills a sewing machine is bought using the proceeds of their rental money!
All the clothes that they make are sold in the Project shop in Sauraha, run by Kashav.
Most of the houses are made of mud, some have brick/stone sections. All have a stable next door where cows are kept.Goats and chickens are also in abundance.
The girls arrived one by one, some brought their parents, and we took photos of all of them with Sue and on their own. It was hard work as they are all very shy and not use to posing for the camera. However, once they saw the results they relaxed and became a little bit better.Some have had serious health issues and looked very sad.
Lunch was served and about 80 people were fed!! No mean feat cooking for that many in such basic conditions.
Group and family photos wre taken and then we went to visit a family that Kashav had discovered living on the streets of Kathmandu. They were a family of 5 + his mother.
They live in the most basic of conditions in the fields. He grows crops of bananas
and soya beans.
He wanted a photo of his mother as she is 74 and he wanted to put it on the walls of his mudhut in her memory for when she is dead.
Hard to understand how these people have nothing yet the smallest thing gives them the greatest pleasure.
We then all piled into the jeep to drive the girls toi the nearest big town, Anji Bazar, to select the material for their clothes. They had great fun picking out their colours. The outfits will be made by a lady who leart to sew at the project and now has here own machine.
See it does work!!!!
Due to my height and hair colour I was a constant source of interest to the locals.They do not see many white people where we went. Not the normal tourist areas.
Returned to Sauraha, hot, dusty and tired. Made arrangements to meet Krishna and family later.
Finally got to call Sandra today,good to hear her voice. Talked for some 18 mins, with the time delay, both missing each other but a week has already gone by. It seems much longer to me and Kathmandu now seems so distant.
Had a good meal at K.C's with good company. Have to admire these people, life is not easy, but they really enjoy themselves.
Wandered home and flopped into bed exhausted!
Jeep came at 9.30 to take us to the village where the Women's Project is run. A very dusty, bumpy journey ofetn along dirt tracks to the Project. On arrival we were presented with flower garlands for festival.
All the rest of Kashav's family where there. They were preparing lunch for everyone.
Cooking on bricks and using logs/tree branches. Water comes from a hand pump, drawn from a bore hole.
Everything is done outside in the back garden.Difficult to comprehend unless you see it.
Lunch was chicken curry, rice, salad and fruit. This would be a real treat for the children, bit like our Xmas dinner! Most of these kids very rarely eat meat. Normally only rice and vegetables, occasionally fish.
The butcher arrived on his pushbike with the chicken and cooking began!!
The project teaches women skills that will help them be self sufficient.
They have sewing machines that the women rent for 5 Rupees a week, appox 5p. This money is saved for them and when they have sufficient skills a sewing machine is bought using the proceeds of their rental money!
All the clothes that they make are sold in the Project shop in Sauraha, run by Kashav.
Most of the houses are made of mud, some have brick/stone sections. All have a stable next door where cows are kept.Goats and chickens are also in abundance.
The girls arrived one by one, some brought their parents, and we took photos of all of them with Sue and on their own. It was hard work as they are all very shy and not use to posing for the camera. However, once they saw the results they relaxed and became a little bit better.Some have had serious health issues and looked very sad.
Lunch was served and about 80 people were fed!! No mean feat cooking for that many in such basic conditions.
Group and family photos wre taken and then we went to visit a family that Kashav had discovered living on the streets of Kathmandu. They were a family of 5 + his mother.
They live in the most basic of conditions in the fields. He grows crops of bananas
and soya beans.
He wanted a photo of his mother as she is 74 and he wanted to put it on the walls of his mudhut in her memory for when she is dead.
Hard to understand how these people have nothing yet the smallest thing gives them the greatest pleasure.
We then all piled into the jeep to drive the girls toi the nearest big town, Anji Bazar, to select the material for their clothes. They had great fun picking out their colours. The outfits will be made by a lady who leart to sew at the project and now has here own machine.
See it does work!!!!
Due to my height and hair colour I was a constant source of interest to the locals.They do not see many white people where we went. Not the normal tourist areas.
Returned to Sauraha, hot, dusty and tired. Made arrangements to meet Krishna and family later.
Finally got to call Sandra today,good to hear her voice. Talked for some 18 mins, with the time delay, both missing each other but a week has already gone by. It seems much longer to me and Kathmandu now seems so distant.
Had a good meal at K.C's with good company. Have to admire these people, life is not easy, but they really enjoy themselves.
Wandered home and flopped into bed exhausted!
Sauraha, first day
Woke early,approx 6am. Had to sleep under the mosquito net as the aircon wasn't switched on. Went and had breakfast, much hotter here than Kathmandu. Planned to go ans see the elephants bathing today. We sat at the bankside and watched as the elephants came down to the river.There were approx 8 elephants in total. The mahouts(handlers)are always talking to them and shouting instuctions.
The elephants love the water, they suck up loads in their trunk and spray themselves with it. They lie down in the river and the mahout scrubs their skin with a stone,this gets rid of insects and dirt.
One elephant lifted his mahout up by his trunk and he just calmly walked up onto his back.
Lots of tourists bathe with the elephants, they climb on their backs and the elephant gives them a shower!!!!
Thing elephants use this river as a toilet!! Local kids also swim in it and women were doing their washing.
A big tourist attraction abnd they were falling over thmselves to bathe in this river. One mouthful of that water and I reckon it is straight to hospital!
Visited Sweet Memories restaurant, Krishna and Radna are the owners. They moved from Pokhara to Sauraha a few years ago. Sue sponsors Ashbin, a really bright 11 year old. His English is really good. he goes to boarding school and stays with his grandparents. He only comes home to Mum and Dad on Saturdays. School is open here 6 days a week.
Krishna has had a plot of land bought for him and he hopes one day to build a hotel here.It will cost approx 400 Pounds Sterling to get the earth to raise the land so building can start.When a Nepali only earns approx 3 Pounds per day it becomes a huge problem to find the money.
Walked back to Rhino Lodge, met Kashav and Ramsharam for lunch and discussed plans for the next few days. A full programme with visits to villages, safari and canoe trip. All in 3 days!!!!
Chilled listening to my ipod in my room, got ready for dinner and went to Sweet Memories. Radna cooked chicken curry, rice and chips, washed down with a cold Gorkha beer! Doesn't get any better than that.
Ashbin(their son)also joined us and practised his English. A really bright kid and the family are keen for him to continue his education. Sue has made her commitment to assist with payment and she was very impressed with his progress since her visit last year.
Their niece is living with them, establishing a beauty parlour next door. They have also taken in a 14 year old girl who was being exploited by her family. They feed and house her and are training her to cook so she can either help them or work somewhere else as she will have learnt the skills needed.
Krishna would not accept payment for dinner, so arrangements were made to take them to K.C's one night before we leave.
Walked back and met Kashav at his shop.
He was telling us about the time a rogue leopard was in the village. It was approx 3 months ago. Villagers noticed that stray dogs were disappearing for no reason. As the leopard became hungrier it started to come into the village and it actually chased a few villagers and tourists. Villagers say it was not hunting but scared and was trying to frighten people away!
The villagers then chased and cornered it in the grounds of our hotel! They brought in 12 elephants to trap it and set fires to stop it from escaping. In fear, the leopard tried to leap over an elephant, no mean feat as they are 8 feet plus tall!
It then ran in between the legs of one elephant and attacked a Dutch lady who worked on the Women's project and was taking photos.
It bit her on the neck and arms.
Kashav jumped on the leopard's back and started to punch it!!!
It kicked him off using one of it's back legs and the rest of the villagers beat it to death. A sad end to a majestic creature, but lives were at risk.
It seems that it was a young male that was outcast from it's family, probably lost a power struggle with another male.
He then told us about the time he found 2 pythons living in his house. They were so big that one fell through the ceiling!
After all that excitment I finally went to bed.
The elephants love the water, they suck up loads in their trunk and spray themselves with it. They lie down in the river and the mahout scrubs their skin with a stone,this gets rid of insects and dirt.
One elephant lifted his mahout up by his trunk and he just calmly walked up onto his back.
Lots of tourists bathe with the elephants, they climb on their backs and the elephant gives them a shower!!!!
Thing elephants use this river as a toilet!! Local kids also swim in it and women were doing their washing.
A big tourist attraction abnd they were falling over thmselves to bathe in this river. One mouthful of that water and I reckon it is straight to hospital!
Visited Sweet Memories restaurant, Krishna and Radna are the owners. They moved from Pokhara to Sauraha a few years ago. Sue sponsors Ashbin, a really bright 11 year old. His English is really good. he goes to boarding school and stays with his grandparents. He only comes home to Mum and Dad on Saturdays. School is open here 6 days a week.
Krishna has had a plot of land bought for him and he hopes one day to build a hotel here.It will cost approx 400 Pounds Sterling to get the earth to raise the land so building can start.When a Nepali only earns approx 3 Pounds per day it becomes a huge problem to find the money.
Walked back to Rhino Lodge, met Kashav and Ramsharam for lunch and discussed plans for the next few days. A full programme with visits to villages, safari and canoe trip. All in 3 days!!!!
Chilled listening to my ipod in my room, got ready for dinner and went to Sweet Memories. Radna cooked chicken curry, rice and chips, washed down with a cold Gorkha beer! Doesn't get any better than that.
Ashbin(their son)also joined us and practised his English. A really bright kid and the family are keen for him to continue his education. Sue has made her commitment to assist with payment and she was very impressed with his progress since her visit last year.
Their niece is living with them, establishing a beauty parlour next door. They have also taken in a 14 year old girl who was being exploited by her family. They feed and house her and are training her to cook so she can either help them or work somewhere else as she will have learnt the skills needed.
Krishna would not accept payment for dinner, so arrangements were made to take them to K.C's one night before we leave.
Walked back and met Kashav at his shop.
He was telling us about the time a rogue leopard was in the village. It was approx 3 months ago. Villagers noticed that stray dogs were disappearing for no reason. As the leopard became hungrier it started to come into the village and it actually chased a few villagers and tourists. Villagers say it was not hunting but scared and was trying to frighten people away!
The villagers then chased and cornered it in the grounds of our hotel! They brought in 12 elephants to trap it and set fires to stop it from escaping. In fear, the leopard tried to leap over an elephant, no mean feat as they are 8 feet plus tall!
It then ran in between the legs of one elephant and attacked a Dutch lady who worked on the Women's project and was taking photos.
It bit her on the neck and arms.
Kashav jumped on the leopard's back and started to punch it!!!
It kicked him off using one of it's back legs and the rest of the villagers beat it to death. A sad end to a majestic creature, but lives were at risk.
It seems that it was a young male that was outcast from it's family, probably lost a power struggle with another male.
He then told us about the time he found 2 pythons living in his house. They were so big that one fell through the ceiling!
After all that excitment I finally went to bed.
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